What you should know about the “Cortisol Face” trend

As the saying goes, nothing is certain except death and taxes… and waking up with a puffy face. Maybe you've tried cutting out salt and giving up grains, or you've invested in an “emotional support” water bottle. Maybe you've jumped on the ice cube bandwagon (or you dunk your face in ice water every morning without fail). You've tried everything—and yet nothing changes. If you feel like you've exhausted all other options, know this: stress could be the culprit. On the internet, it's called the cortisol face, referring to the connection between cortisol and skin health.

As much as we love the hydrating effects of a sheet mask, this quick (and admittedly relaxing) fix doesn't do much to relieve stress in the long term. Don't get me wrong, I'm wearing a face mask as I write this. But if the buildup of stress is wreaking havoc on your skin and body, maybe it's time to take a closer look at the connection between cortisol and skin.

Featured image from our interview with Odette Annable by Michelle Nash.

Cortisol and skin: The surprising connection

Cortisol is the stress hormone. As with all hormones, an imbalance can wreak havoc on your body. Poor gut health can lead to estrogen imbalance, and a vitamin B deficiency can impact testosterone. While the timeline is different for everyone, research shows that if you take a holistic approach to your health, you can balance your hormones within a matter of months. That's why getting cortisol levels back to manageable levels is so important – for your skin and your overall well-being.

To learn more about facial cortisol and the connection between cortisol and skin, I consulted Danuta Mieloch. Mieloch is a celebrity aesthetician (her clients include Naomi Campbell and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley), the owner of Rescue Spa, and the founder of Danucera Skincare. She knows the importance of combining targeted, topical treatments with good wellness habits, and sees the direct link between skin-supportive and stress-relieving routines and healthy, resilient skin. Read on to find out Mieloch's expert advice.

Danuta Mieloch

Danuta Mieloch is an award-winning esthetician, entrepreneur and founder known for her skincare expertise and compassionate approach, helping thousands of clients take care of their complexions for over 30 years.

What is a cortisol face?

There are many dramatic changes and before-and-after videos on social media showing the appearance of cortisol on the face. “If we recognize these signs, we can offer targeted and effective treatments,” says Mieloch. However, if you've had elevated cortisol levels for some time – perhaps without realizing it or recognizing stress as an underlying condition – the visible effects may not be as clear. According to Mieloch, elevated cortisol levels can manifest themselves in the following ways:

• swelling. Do you wake up bloated after eating salty foods at night? Increased fluid and sodium retention is also a symptom of elevated cortisol levels.
• Increasing redness. As your body tries to regulate high cortisol levels, blood rushes to the skin, and increased blood flow can cause redness. Redness is also a response to irritation caused by a compromised skin barrier.
• Acne. Cortisol causes increased sebum production and clogs your pores with excess oil.
• Slowed healing. Increased stress impairs repair processes and leads to slower healing.
• Inflammation. Cortisol worsens inflammatory conditions and increases inflammation.
• Premature aging. The breakdown of collagen and elastin can cause premature signs of skin aging such as fine wrinkles and sun spots.

Cortisol and skin myths

As with anything that aims to dramatically change your life, there are many myths about cortisol and skin. Now more than ever, people are trying to find solutions to their cortisol problems.

Myth No. 1: Cortisol only causes acne

“Cortisol doesn't just affect acne,” says Mieloch. Everyone reacts differently to stress, but elevated cortisol levels can cause everything from dryness to redness and sensitivity.

Stress can also destroy your skin barrier. In fact, a damaged skin barrier is the main sign of stressed skin. Stress can also worsen other skin problems and increase inflammation and skin sensitivity.

Myth No. 2: Cortisol has an immediate effect on the skin

Even though you may hear about “dysregulation” on the Internet, occasional, short-term cortisol spikes are not good for too much Damage. Stress is a fact of life – with all the stress you have every day, it's a normal response to stimuli, and in small amounts, stress can help us cope. However, when cortisol levels remain elevated for a long period of time (some sources say six months or more), chronic stress may be the cause.

According to Mieloch, it's chronic stress — “not short-term stress spikes” — that contributes to skin changes. If you're suffering from chronic stress, there may not even be an immediate stressor present, but your cortisol levels will remain elevated — and the effects will show on your skin.

Myth No. 3: Only psychological stress affects the skin

“Physical stress also increases cortisol levels, which affects the skin,” says Mieloch. This type of stress occurs when our bodies are exposed to factors that cause physical strain, triggering a stress response. Physical stress can be anything from environmental toxins to poor diet to lack of sleep and even our workouts.

Stress-reducing practices you can incorporate into your daily routine

Lifestyle factors can cause stress, but they can also reduce stress. There are many healthy habits that can help you reduce the effects of cortisol on your skin.

Instead, concentrate on low-impact movements.

Regular exercise doesn't have to be intimidating. Whether you're dancing in your living room or working out at the gym, incorporating exercise into your day will help you reduce stress. However, it's important to pay attention to the type the exercise you perform and your recovery process. As mentioned, exercise puts physical stress on the body. Studies have found that HIIT training can significantly increase cortisol levels immediately after exercise, and that cortisol levels can remain elevated afterward.

If you want to reduce the effects of cortisol on your skin, gentle exercise can be an effective way to do it. Anything from walking to yoga to slow, strength-focused movements is a good way to go.

Practice mindfulness.

A few moments of mindfulness can do wonders for your cortisol levels and therefore your skin. By taking some time to focus on deep breathing, you can bring the body out of fight or flight mode and quiet the noise in your head. Mieloch recommends mindfulness methods like nasal breathing or breathing exercises in general. Exercises like yoga and tai chai help combine movement and mindfulness to relax the entire body. Tip: You can also practice mindfulness throughout the day. This guide to living a more mindful life is a good place to start.

Moderate your caffeine consumption.

Caffeine is a stimulant that increases your heart rate and spikes your cortisol levels. (If you're on your third cold brew while reading this, do a quick body scan and notice if you're feeling jittery rather than energized.) Try replacing one of your caffeinated beverages with a hydrating drink. Before your morning coffee, try making Sexy Water—the hydration trend that makes drinking water fun and more effective.

Although it's often overlooked, the importance of making time for the people in your life cannot be overstated. Seeking support during stressful times is one of the best things you can do for your long-term health. Sometimes an open conversation can be the best medicine.

Which supplements lower cortisol?

To support you in your lifestyle changes, Mieloch recommends the following supplements:

• 😂 … This is possibly one of the most effective supplements for stress. It changes the way your body metabolizes cortisol and is a pillar of Ayurvedic medicine.
• Rhodiola rosea. This adaptogenic herb promotes balance and sustained energy.
• Omega-3 fatty acids. Not only are these good for your heart, but they're also fantastic for your skin and stress levels. They can reduce inflammation in the body and even provide plump, hydrated skin. You can get them from fish oil supplements or, if you're on a plant-based diet, from algae-based alternatives.
• Magnesium. Most women suffer from magnesium deficiency. Finding the right type of magnesium for you can help lower your cortisol levels, increase your energy, sleep better, and enjoy many other benefits.
• Stress-relieving teas. Different tea blends have been used for centuries to treat different ailments. Choose from chamomile, jasmine, green tea and other soothing blends.

The best skin care routine for a face with cortisol

Although combating cortisol starts at the lifestyle level, there are some steps you can take to address the effects of cortisol on the skin. If you suffer from stressed skin and a compromised skin barrier, Mieloch recommends sticking to the basics. “Get regular facials and take good care of your skin,” she says.

She says a cortisol facial skin care routine should include:

• Anti-inflammatory, clean beauty. “Fragrance-free skin care can help prevent inflammation. Avoid highly active products and generally avoid using too many products.”
• Moisturizers. Stressed skin is dehydrated skin. The right moisturizers can soothe skin while restoring your moisture barrier.
• Sun protection. Sunscreen prevents further skin damage and premature skin aging. It also protects against environmental pollution and UV damage.

Mieloch also recommends at-home facial massages to promote circulation and lymphatic drainage in the face. Using your favorite multi-benefit facial mask and a massage tool like an ice roller or gua sha stone, a thorough facial massage can help prevent facial cortisol.